Mezquita : The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba
Córdoba, a city in the Andalusia region of Spain, was one of the greatest European cities from the 9th to 11th century AD. Under the Islamic rule, it became a leading centre in science, medicine, architecture and literature. Many universities, libraries and hospitals thrived under the Caliphate. Muslims, Jews and Christians all lived in harmony making the city a melting pot for cultures. The Mosque of Córdoba was the crown jewel of the Caliphate. It is one of the greatest works of Islamic architecture of all times and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Although it is now officially known as the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, among locals it is still popular as the Mezquita: The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.
The beginning of an endless night
I took the last train from Seville to Córdoba. It was a smooth 45 minutes ride where I had an interesting discussion with a student regarding challenges faced by students in Spain. I still remember the expression on her face when I told her that around 1.2 million students appear for the engineering entrance exams in India every year. “What? That’s like double the population of Seville” she replied with a stunned look. We reached the station around 10:30 pm, where she directed me towards the Mezquita.
My plan was to spend the night in a hostel near the Mezquita and pay an early visit the next day. I inquired at the hostel for a bed.
“Sorry mate, we are full” said the receptionist
“No issues. I will look for another one. Thank you”. I replied with a smile and walked away searching for another hostel.
“We are out of beds” said the person in-charge of the second hostel
“Oh! Hope I find some space in the next one” I replied, trying to console myself. But the same story repeated one after another. For an hour I searched for a bed but to no success. I inquired at the hotels too, but on hearing their rates I knew the night was going to be long.
It was 12 in the night and I had 8.30 hours to spend before I could enter the Mezquita. I was walking trying to think my next plan of action when a when a receptionist at one of the hostels I had asked for a room earlier called out to me
Receptionist (R): “Didn’t get a bed? That’s really sad!
Me: “I know. Wish I had booked it earlier. Anyways it seems I need to spend the whole night on the streets”. There was a brief moment of silence before I asked her “I am sure you must be having a locker or a store room here. Is it possible you keep my backpack in there for a night? Its heavy and I won’t be able to walk around with it. I will collect it first thing in the morning. Please?
R: “Sure, that won’t be a problem at all. You can leave your bag here”.
Me: “Thank you so much! This solves one half of my problem. I hope it’s safe to walk around during this time?
R: “Well, Córdoba is a safe city in general. So I hope there won’t be any problems”
In General and Hope, these two words made me look in my camera bag for that one particular item which I always carried but hadn’t used even once in my life: my Victorinox Swiss Knife. I prayed I wouldn’t need to use it this time as well.
With that I thanked the lady once again and set on what would be a beginning of an endless night!
Night on the streets of Córdoba
I doubt there was a street left in Córdoba on which I didn’t walk. I walked left, right and centre across this beautiful city. Crossed the same square or street several times but I just didn’t care. I was actually enjoying the feeling of having the whole city to myself.
It was 4:30 am in the morning when I heard some music from a spot nearby. There were a good number of students hanging out there.
“Ahh party! This could be a perfect time killer” I murmured to myself
10 euros for entrance with 3 drinks included didn’t seem a bad idea at all. I quietly sat in a corner with my drink observing people enjoying their time. A couple of people high on drinks asked for a selfie and I obliged without a fuss. Before I could realize, it was 7:30 am already. It had been one hell of a night and it was finally time to see the Mezquita.
The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba
The Mezquita currently is a Roman catholic church. Then why is it called the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba? The timeline below will clear all your doubts.
~ 600 AD : A church existed at the current site
~ 700 AD : The Muslims capture Córdoba. They buy half of the church land from the Christians and construct a mosque . The site is now a half church and a half mosque
784 AD : The Emir buys the other half from the Christians and begins construction of the Great Mosque
1236 AD : The Christians reconquer Córdoba and convert the mosque into a church
The Islamic architecture is clearly visible inside the cathedral. Even today, the locals call it the mosque(although its no longer a mosque but a cathedral). One can hear the local Christians saying “Voy a la Mezquita a oír misa – I’m going to the Mosque to hear mass”
The Spanish Muslims have repeatedly requested the Vatican to allow them to worship inside, but the Vatican has time and again denied them.
How to reach Córdoba
Córdoba is well connected to Madrid (2 hrs.) and Seville (45 mins) by train.
Sincera Tip
- Do book your accommodation in advance 😛
- Mezquita timings : The Mezquita is open each day of the year
- March – October : Monday to Saturday – 10 am to 7 pm , Sunday and religious holidays – 8:30 am to 11: 30 am and 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm
- November – February : Monday to Saturday – 10 am to 6 pm , Sunday and religious holidays – 8:30 am to 11: 30 am and 3:00 pm to 6:00 pm
- Price for admission is 10 euros for adults and 5 euros for children between 10 and 14. Admission for children below 10 is free
- There is so much history associated with this place that I will definitely recommend hiring an audio guide.
- A light and sound show during the night called the Soul of Córdoba is a unique way to explore the monument. You can book the tickets on this website
*Do note that you won’t be allowed to click pictures during the night show, hence club the night show with a day tour to the Mezquita